What: It’s not as common as curry goat, but if you can it, curried lobster (or shrimp) is a real treat—buttery; spiked with garlic, onions, and Scotch bonnet pepper; seasoned with curry powder. And if you can find it on a beach, you have pretty much hit the jackpot.
Where: This shack, called “Lick ’Em Finger” (aka Cynthia’s, who runs the place), is on Winnifred Beach (map), one of the island’s few free public beaches, located in Portland Parish. For years, the locals have been fighting to keep it free, and so far they’ve succeeded. (Be sure to donate if you go!) The access road is steep and potholed, but the rewards are high once you make it here: white sand, turquoise water, plenty of shade, very few tourists. And great food and drink vendors.
When: Daily, 9am-5pm or 6pm.
Order: The curried lobster (JA$2,000), deshelled and served with rice and peas, plantain, salad, and freshly fried festival (fried dough fingers), is fabulous here—just be prepared to wait. Belying the humble beach shack setting, the meals here are prepared to order, with special care. We saw the dough for the festival, often served dry and stale/reheated elsewhere, dropped into the fryer before our eyes, and it was the best festival we’ve eaten anywhere. There’s delicious grilled and escovitch fish here as well—but we’d guess anything would be great out of this kitchen.
Alternatively: We saw curried shrimp on the menu at Mom’s in Ocho Rios (876-974-2811; 7 Evelyn St., map; closed Sundays), but otherwise, it’s a likely bet at spots along the coast. Keep your eyes open for it!