Considered the finest yogurt available in Nepal, juju dhau translates as “king of yogurt” or “king curd” in the Newari language—if you like yogurt at all, this dish is for you. The buffalo milk curd has a sweet taste and a very creamy texture as it’s made in a clay pot that removes excess moisture. Jute cloth and rice husks are also used in the process, to keep the yogurt at the right temperature and consistency. It is a specialty of the Newari people of Bhaktapur, a town in the east of the Kathmandu Valley that was once an independent kingdom. In Bhaktapur it can be seen being made in small kitchens—the distinctive clay pots in which it’s cultured stacked up with bamboo supports that stop the pots from spoiling the curd in the pot below. Juju dhau is eaten as a snack on its own, or as a dessert accompaniment to a larger Newari meal. The best part is scooping the creamy layer off the top!
Where: While juju dhau originates in Bhaktapur, it’s sent all around Kathmandu and is therefore available throughout the city. We picked up this tasty pot from the Farmers Mart (Jhamsikhel Marg, Patan 44600, map) grocery shop in Sanepa, but it originated in Bhaktapur.
When: Sun-Fri, 7:30am-7:30pm
Order: Juju dhau (Rs 55). Farmers Mart is a good place to stock up on organic and specialty grocery items, so replenish your kitchen or buy some items for a picnic alongside the juju dhau.
Alternatively: Many of the little Newari food stalls around the Patan Durbar Square sell the same juju dhau from Bhaktapur for Rs 30 per pot. If you’re over in Bhaktapur itself, there are no shortages of little stalls selling it.